Deck Work – Bow Pulpit, Stern Rail and Stanchions

Original bow pulpit and stantions - nothing on the back of the boat

S/V Connie came with a bow pulpit and 2 stanchions on each side, ending at about the mid cabin house. All 4 original stantions and the bow pulpit are 20″ high (perfect for catching a person right under the knees). There was only a single, top line for the stantions.

I priced a new Bow and Stern rail setup (at 26″) and 8 stantions from Railmakers NW. The total from them was $2300. To put it mildly; excessive for my little vessel.

I figure that I can use the current bow pulpit and add five 26″ stantions on each side. The rear stantions are right in the opposite corners of the transom. The rear stantions would make a stern pushpit.

  • These are the Stanchions I got – the manufacture also make bases, but they look a bit light to me (ultimately, I did order them – and return them – deemed junk by all who saw them). I work for a marine company and I removed the product from our site.
  • Here are the Stanchion Bases I ordered and like.

The rear stantions will be joined with a 1″ rail and each of the corners have rails joined with the two aft side stantions to prevent forward stress.

The progression of this project was thus:

  • Remove 20″ stantions and terminal plates of lifeline.
  • Fill in holes for original stantions and terminal plate.
  • Measure out and install rear stantions and reinforcement braces.**
  • Install (4) 26″ stantions per side at 54″ intervals.
  • Install nine inch sections of 7/8″ SS tube to reinforce the stantions at the bottom – moving the fulcrum for bending far above the solid cast bases.
  • Install the lower cast anchor point on the bow pulpit.
  • Install gate mounts on stanchion.

** Note, there are just a few times when I am brought to near crying, whimpering, cursing supplication when working on a boat. I secured the washer for backing plate to the socket with blue masking tape, the socket than held the nyloc nut for when reaching into the stern corners of my boat through the center aft lazarette locker door while grinding my ribs into the honed corner of the opening… all while holding the ratchet handle with two fingers, ready to drop the entire assembly into the aft portion of the full deep keel was as close to personal agony most boat owners go through. Two painful hours later, I had two bases with 4 bolts each secured. So, if you ever feel that you are alone in your suffering, take heart, there are many suffering breathern who ask the question “If I want this installed, how will I reach it” – with the reply “with pain; with pain and persistence”.

Then I finished the last 6 bolts that finally completed this stern pushpit, with only minor strife. All will go easy until the engine install – well, wishful thinking.

Posted in Deck Work, East Wind 25 | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

The Plan – Keeping on track

The Summer (2010) is wearing on and I have only another 8-9 months before Connie is due back in the water. I will be honest here – I have gotten married (March 20, 2011) and went on a three week honeymoon to backpack and bus in Mexico, Belize and Guatemala. I am now working on our boat with my wife. The plan is to go around Vancouver Island (and perhaps up to the Queen Charlottes) during the summer of 2012, when I turn 50.

I need a plan. I have Don Casey in “This Old Boat” advising me to make a list and stick to it. He also mentions that the list will grow (sometimes adding more items in a day than I complete!). I have the boat building experiences of two prior cruising boats, but this one is certainly the smallest boat – which brings unique challenges.

So here it is, the list of what I see that I need to do to make my fine little boat into an exceptional boat. Just like in Daniel Spurr’s “Upgrading the Cruising Boat”, I want a better boat on a budget.

Finished in (Brackets), weight change, Materials cost – <Cost if someone else did the labor>.

Green indicates that it is done!


  • scrape bottom
  • paint bottom
  • depth sounder


The Topsides are a huge area. I am breaking this up into a few areas:


  • remove, fill and fair rub rail
  • install bow deadlights (April 2011) +4#’s – $120
  • repair, fair bow and stern
  • add stern ladder – $35 <$283>
  • bow ring
  • primer
  • paint


  • remove old stantions, fill holes (June 2010) -5#’s – $11
  • 8 new stantions (August 2010) +12#’s -$164
  • reinforce stantions 9″ piece of 7/8″ inside of each stanchion (August 2010) +3#’s – $14
  • stern pushpit (July 2010) +14#’s – $87
  • bow cleat (August 2010) +1# – $55
  • paint – KiwiGrip Non-Skid Gel
  • paint white brightsides


  • repair delamination
  • reduce cockpit size, new drains ORC
  • cockpit floor access to engine area
  • install bilge pump ORC
  • access to new lockers
  • seal and finish hatches
  • rear hatch latch
  • new Plastimo Contest 101 compass
  • refinish teak – CPES and varnish
  • refinish slats and companionway trim
  • reinforce companionway trim and hatch
  • ORC rules for hatch latches


  • new forward Bomar portlight (April 2011) +8#’s – $55
  • new hard dodger
  • forward hatch in hard dodger
  • solar panel
  • new forward cabin hatch
  • replace side windows with 3/16″ cast acrylic
  • storm lid for forward cabin hatch, ORC
  • LED bulbs in existing p/s navigation lights (December 2010) – $48
  • seal and varnish wood


  • remove po cabinets built over one berth (May)  -48#’s
  • scrap, sand, paint inside
  • polish fiberglass
  • sand wood, CEPS on all wood, varnish
  • install access points  – deck plates

Aft Inside

  • fuel tank
  • water tank
  • battery holder
  • hangers in lockers


  • buy engine
  • get transmission to prop parts (April 2011), +65 – $360
  • install new beds and mounts
  • install and align cutless and tube
  • dripless shaft seal
  • propeller and zinc


See the article on Electrical

Mast, Rigging & Sails

  • install new main halyard winch
  • check all fittings and rig (April 2011)
  • move Gooseneck up 18″
  • new main and 110
  • new 150
  • new storm jib (Sept 2010) +12, $221
  • LED at masthead all around
  • new led tricolor

That should do it for now. Updated 6/1/2011

Posted in Below Decks, Deck Work, East Wind 25, Electrical, Finishing, Propulsion | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Inboard Engine – options; and what I chose

The alternate reason for an inboard - to clean up this pretty transom.

I put the outboard up for sale even before I took delivery of the boat. The transom is too pretty – and too high above the water – for an outboard. Additionally, I have thoughts of taking this boat further and I would need the power of an inboard and it’s below water propeller to do what I want.  

S/V Connie originally had an inboard Palmer 1 cylinder gas engine. I was going to have to fit something like this original engine and redrill out the shaft tube.  

Here are the variables (nothing is crossed off the list, yet):  

  • New or old
  • Diesel, gas or electric
  • In diesel – one or two cylinders

One of the prime restrictions for the engine is the opening of the hatch and the front of the ‘engine room’  

  • Through the companionway – 20″ wide – 28″ high (at 45 degree angle, hatch removed).
  • Engine opening inside – 18″ wide – 24-1/2″ high (no room to alter either measurement).
  • Engine bed – 12″ inside, apart, 5″ to stringers.

Engines that can power the boat; NEW – watercooled diesel  

Nanni 2.40HE (10.6HP), Nanni 2.10N (10HP), Yanmar YM-2YM15 (13.3HP), Yanmar 1GM10 (9HP), BETA 10 TMC40 (10HP), BETA BZ482 (13.3HP), BETA 14 (13.5HP), Lombardini LDW 502 M (13HP), Volvo Penta D1-13 (11.8HP) and Westerbeke 12C2.  

Of those engines, only one of them with fit through the dimensions I have (I know of one fitted to another East Wind), the Yanmar 1GM10.  

Engines that can power the boat; NEW – air-cooled diesel  

UPDATE – This article was originally written back in May (up to here). It is now July and I have looked at all the options available. In the interim, I ‘bought’ a yanmar diesel, only to have the guy steal my deposit and disappear. Now I have made a choice for a new engine.  

Choosing the upgrade of an engine is never an easy. I even thought of electric (I joined a group that plays with electric motor conversions in boats), with the goal to motor only 30 miles if needed. In the end, choosing the engine was decided by several factors.  

My engine choice:  

  • Size – it had to fit though the opening I had – no cutting open the cockpit
  • Weight – I wanted to keep the weight to a minimum and still generate HP, in fact, I wanted it to be light enough that I alone could move it around
  • Fuel efficient – I did not want to carry large amounts of fuel
  • Simple – It had to work without being ‘too complex’

I even though of going back to the outboard – but it was declined because of the cavitation when using it in rough seas and the fuel consumption is greater than diesel.  

Electric was declined because of the weight (I was looking at 32v motors that could push my boat with 4Hp) of the motors and batteries.  

So that leaves a diesel engine, again.  

Here is the engine I am installing and the reasons for it.  

Hatz Diesel 1B40

I have chosen the Hatz Diesel Engine with Electric Start — 10 HP, 1in. x 2.84in. Shaft, Model# 1B40U2ES-9929 from Northern Tool. I will explain more about the engine below. The reasons I chose this are based on:  

  • Size – It is 15.5″ wide. It will fit through my narrow cabin opening and mount to the frame that I have. I even have room to reach around the engine when in the compartment to bolt it down.
  • Weight – 117.5 pounds, with electric start.
  • Fuel consumption – 1/4 gallon per hour.
  • Simple – electric start that can be mechanically started as well, no water-cooling.

Here is a bit more data – in here, you will find the reasons I have set on this engine.  

The shaft can take a compression load of 1200 N (270 pounds) which is the force generated by 10hp through a propeller. It is designed to take a propeller (or full work) thrust load. There is no water cooling for this engine; no water pump, no thruhull, no exchanger. I have the room for air cooling, Hatz supplies the information of the amount of air that is needed to keep the engine cool (24 cuft/min). The 1B40 developes its maximum torque at 2000 rpm with 7.2 Hp. The engine has an alternator charging current of 14V at 3000  rpm (14 Amps) or 1500 rpm (7 Amps). The U model engine has an additional counter balance to smooth out the single cylinder engine. It is at it’s most fuel efficient at 2000 rpm. The engine can operate up to 35 degrees heal and 25/35 degrees pitching. Lastly, it can be pull started! 

The full details of the Hatz Diesel are here. I am looking at the 1B40 – 10Hp. They have other engines on here for both less and more Hp. If you have a small boat and are repowering, take a look at these little powerhouses.  

Here is a little bit of background. I have owned two sailboats with diesel engines. One had a German Farymann 10Hp, an A30. This engine was noisy (like an air-cooled!) and raw water-cooled. It served me well in my trimaran, Godsend. It had little problem pushing the 2500 pound boat to hull speed.  

The second was a big Norwegian Sabb 20 Hp. It was a crazy heavy motor that made 20 real Hp from a 1000 pound motor. Reliable and loud, I cruised with it at 1100 RPM and a prop speed of 1/2 that. It had no problem pushing the 26,000 Ingrid with tugboat like wash.  

I have worked on many other engines for friends – Perkins (I like the simplicity), Yanmar (they make darn nice engines), Volvo and Kubota blocks.  

How I came to this path.  

While researching, I looked at every marine diesel I could find, including some air-cooled oddballs – like Lister, Lombarsini, Ducati, Robin and Lovson. I searched websites in Europe and Asia and found that there were boat operators (sailboats, small fishing boats and pleasure boast) that were using smaller aircooled diesels.  

Here is a popular small air-cooled diesel used in Asia – it is a marine aircooled diesel. The Robin is also from China.  

It seems like small air-cooled diesels are used in Asia, the UK and Eastern Europe. It was because I found that they were used so well in Asia, in heat, in boxes! that I figured it was worth a try. After running for some time, I will report a usage update. 

Lastly – are you struggling to figure out your propeller for your project? I was until I found this site… 

 Victoria Propeller – just go to their calculators 

Hatz 1B40 - 10Hp

Posted in Below Decks, East Wind 25, Propulsion | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Planning the Electrical System

Here is where you get to see some of my planning. Mostly I intend to have this blog as “How to’s”. This one is fairly wordy. The later follow-up to this will be when I am installing the panels and tillerpilot. This takes me back to the first cruising boat we (Cindi and I) owned and that I rebuilt. Except now I have a decade and a half more experience, on my third boat since then and had some professional boat building experience with high tech materials.

Ah, small boats are more complex than they were 50 years ago. The biggest change in the electrical system in that time is the use of AGM batteries and LED lights, both technological marvels that are often under appreciated. My boat’s electrical system primarily consists of lights, one electric pump and an engine – that’s it. Pumps on a boat are real power hogs – as are any non-LED lights.

The only electrical items I have kept from prior a refit are the 2 bronze side navigation lights and the bronze all around at the masthead. I am only wanting to have a two battery (one for house, one for engine) boat at maximum – I am trying for just one group 31 though.

Battery – the heart of the electrical system and where you can shed pounds and dollars to buy more efficient lighting…

Here is the Optima battery I am looking at – either one D31M or two D34M

I know it is a bit like comparing apples to oranges when I compare a one battery setup to a two – but they offer advantages either way.

  • One D31M – 60 pounds, 900 CCA, 155 minutes reserve
  • Two D34M – 87 pounds, 1500CCA, 240 minutes reserve (figures for 2 batteries combined)

Two D34M batteries fit under the cabin sole – perfect (6/3/2011)

Charging – Making more power, replacing used power…

The engine will be the secondary power maker. I am planning the 65 watt, 3.5 amps solar panel as the primary.

The solar panel will replace some 20 amps of power into the battery, everyday. I calculate the usage of lights themselves at 10 amps maximum per day, including night sailing. The GPS and Autopilot would take another 10 in a 24 hour operation period. During coastal sailing, the lights might be 4 amps and the rest of the equipment 6 amps. I anticipate not needing the power to be generated with the engine running.

Panel Design -In the past I always had one panel, down below, next to the companionway…

I plan on having 2 smaller waterproof electrical panels. Because of the layout of the boat, one panel is down below and is used for all interior power functions. The second panel is fitted to the original engine operations panel, in the starboard lazzerett. Each panel will have a master shutoff down near the house panel. So here is a list of what I need power for;

8 Position Interior Power Panel; A 6 position is available if I can manage it

  • Main cabin lights
  • V berth lights
  • Power plugs
  • Navigation (GPS)
  • Depth Sounder
  • Compass Light
  • 12v Plug

8 position Lazerett Power Panel;

  • Running lights – upgraded original lights to LED bulbs on side navigation lights
  • Masthead tricolor – looking for good LED version
  • All Round – Anchor light
  • Autopilot – TP10 would do the job – I want faster response and a more rugged unit so I will purchase a Simrad TP32 Tillerpilot
  • Cockpit lights
  • Dodger lights
  • Blower
  • 12v Plug

I also need, in this area;

  • key shutoff for power to starter
  • starter button

There will be two separate battery power switches – one for the inside panel and bilge pump – one for the outside panel and engine. The bilge pump gets its own 3 position switch.

The Electricals – why I chose what I choose…

Autopilot – The autopilot choice was based on the experience I have off shore and what I know about using them. The autopilot does hard work, freeing the singlehanded (or doublehanded) operator of the single highest drudgery job. At night, it holds an arrow straight course when staring at your compass and hand steering would make you mad within a watch or two. There are few things that once you become used to them that you feel you can live without – autopilot and the GPS share that position with me.

S/V Connie is under 2.5 Tons and has a 25′ LOA, 20′ LWL.

TP10 –

  • Max boat 33′ and / or 3.7 Tons
  • Power consumption; Auto 0.5 Amps, Standby 0.06 Amps
  • Peak Thrust 143 pounds
  • Hardover Time (what I am most concerned with) – At 0kg load 6.9 seconds, At 20kg load 8 seconds
  • Drive system – Screw Thread
  • Current ‘cheap’ price – $330

TP32 –

  • Max boat 39′ and / or  6.3 Tons
  • Power consumption; Auto 0.5 Amps, Standby 0.06 Amps
  • Peak Thrust 187 pounds
  • Hardover Time (what I am most concerned with) – At 0kg load 4 seconds, At 20kg load 4.7 seconds
  • Drive System – Recirculating Screw Thread
  • Current ‘cheap’ price – $620

So why not the TP22? It is the same tiller pilot as the TP10 with a slightly higher thrust motor, but all the same construction and reaction times. Note that the power consumption remains the same, reagrdless of the model – yet the time in actual operation will be shorter because of the faster TP32 system. The reason I am prepared to pay near double? I had one last for over 15 years on a previous boat. The tillerpilot works hard and there is NEVER one to buy when your’s goes bad.

Lights – Planning

When it comes to Navigation Lights, know what is required for your boat. Here are some Colregs (Collision Regulations) – for lights, look at rules 20-31. My boat is 25′. The ‘break’ for small boat lights happens below 39.4′. if you are under this sixe, here is what you require:

  • Sidelights: These red and green lights are called sidelights (also called combination lights) because they are visible to another vessel approaching from the side or head-on. The red light indicates a vessel’s port (left) side; the green indicates a vessel’s starboard (right) side.
  • Sternlight: This white light is seen only from behind or nearly behind the vessel. See Masthead and All-Round light before you go installing a separate stern light.
  • Masthead Light: This white light shines forward and to both sides and is required on all power-driven vessels. (On power-driven vessels less than 39.4 feet in length, the masthead light and sternlight may be combined into an all-round white light; power-driven vessels 39.4 feet in length or longer must have a separate masthead light.) A masthead light must be displayed by all vessels when under engine power. The absence of this light indicates a sailing vessel because sailboats under sail display only sidelights and a sternlight.
  • All-Round White Light: On power-driven vessels less than 39.4 feet in length, this light may be used to combine a masthead light and sternlight into a single white light that can be seen by other vessels from any direction. This light serves as an anchor light when sidelights are extinguished.

I went two ways on the navigation lights. I have the Port and Starboard lights on the cabinhouse and the All-round masthead light. That All-round light is also my anchor light. I also have a tricolor Masthead light (used in ‘sailing only’ night conditions).

Posted in East Wind 25, Electrical | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Bronze Boat Bits – Manufacturers and Suppliers

Ah, the joys of owning a small boat. To add to that, my small boat is coming to be 50 years old soon.

I own a 1964 Paceship Eastwind 25. It has many original fittings to it, but I am always looking for more of the original bronze equipment.

Here are some sources of Products – I will not vouch for them unless I have personal experience.


ABI – Portholes, Portlights, Vents, Hardware, Deck Fill, Deck Prism, Pad eyes, Scuppers

Ballentine Open Cleat

Ballentine’s Boat Shop – Fabricates and sells high quality bronze hardware for the Herreshoff and Haven 12 1/2s. Their bronze could be fitted to nearly any boat.

Port Townsend Foundry – Custom marine boat bronze castings. These folks cast custom tread plates for my former cruising boat Kalakala. They are good quality, but – um – slow.

Rekord Marine – loads of parts, including odd things like Brass navigation lights w/ glass lenses from Italy.

Rigrite – Winches, Information, Other sailing gear

Spartan Marine – A pretty complete array of production Bronze parts. Better just look.

Shaw and Tenney - patent swivel rowlocks

Shaw and Tenney – bronze oarlocks and fitments for them, including and outrigger oarlock that would allow for longer oars in a dinghy while being able to flip inside and store clean.

This is not finished or complete. If you find a Marine Bronze manufacturer or supplier, please let me know.

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Wilcox Crittenden Side Lights – Navigation Lights

I love old quality craftsmanship. Wilcox Crittenden made all sorts of cast bronze boat equipment as well as the toilet in my previous cruising boat (and there was one in this boat – I retained the original plaque). Here is a bit about redoing these lights and fitting them with LED bulbs. When I am done the electrical wiring section, I will demonstrate the new lights.

The sidelights – I am currently looking for a matching stern light!

Starboard side navigation light - before

Dismantled – Both rubber seals were still serviceable. They had 46 years of weather exposure.

Starboard navigation light Dismantled

Assembled – What you get when you use; a brass wire wheel, then a buffer with brown polish, then a buffer with white polish, then a hand buff with Flitz (I own a quart) and then a seal coat with Renaissance Mono-crystalline wax. If you thought Flitz was dear, Mono-crystalline wax is loopy. I learned about Renaissance when taking a museum restoration course; it is used to preserve all bare metals from the enviroment and oils of human contact.

Port Light installed (see, both sides are polished!)

Finished – When assembling, I did 2 things that many miss. First I coated the still serviceable rubber seal with silicone grease. The grease prevents the seal from getting too hard and prevents the seal from ‘gluing’ itself to the rubber. Second, I am installing LED bulbs.

Port Navigation light installed

A fellow in Canada designed and then had No. 90 series base LED bulbs built, in a waterproof base. I ordered 2 of them from David at Boaterbits. You must order the color LED to match the light that you are using it in – Red LED’s for the port light, etc. This allows many of us using common small lights that were designed in the past 70 years to upgrade the bulbs to something more energy friendly.

Early History of Wilcox Crittenden

In 1847, a young Yankee named William Walter Wilcox invested his faith, business savvy and modest life savings into the production and distribution of a simple metallic grommet. Wilcox soon expanded his product line to meet the needs of the sailors and shipbuilders within the coastal community of Middletown, Connecticut. Out of his early ingenuity came round-edged sail thimbles, spectacle clews and sticking tommies, creating a demand on his small firm for all kinds of ship and canvas fittings. By 1869, the rapid expansion of the company began to require more capital to service the growing number of customers. Wilcox offered an interest in the company to Albert R. Crittenden, a young man who had been under his employ for a decade. Under this new partnership, the firm became known as Wilcox, Crittenden & Company. As the Wilcox reputation for quality grew, virtually every ship to slide down the ways carried a full complement of Wilcox Crittenden gear. For example, the American clipper ship FREDERICK BILLINGS was launched at Rockport, Maine on August 11th, 1885. She was equipped throughout with Wilcox Crittenden hardware and fittings. For 38 years before the good ship FREDERICK BILLINGS started on her career, Wilcox Crittenden & Co., Inc., had been supplying dependable marine hardware to the famous clipper ships the queens of the sea in their day…

The Complete History of Wilcox, Crittenden & Co.

In 1847, Middletown was New England’s largest inland port, and it was in that year the company that would become Wilcox, Crittenden & Co., Inc. was established. According to the centennial history of the company, it was in Ben Butler’s sail loft in Middletown that Eldridge Penfield first conceived of developing a metal grommet (later to be called the sail eyelet grommet) to replace the rope grommets that were currently being used by sailmakers.

In partnership with his uncle, Ira Penfield, Eldridge Penfield formed the firm of E. H. & I. K. Penfield. The business was opened in a small building at the rear of the property located at Main and William Street in Middletown, and was the first company in America to produce metal grommets. The first grommets were stamped out using hand presses which were operated by the partners and by William Walter Wilcox, whom they had hired.

For the next two years, Penfield tried to market the new grommets by utilizing traveling salesmen who brought and sold on consignment and kept most of the profits. After this unsuccessful period, Eldridge Penfield sold out his interest to Ira Penfield, and Wilcox invested his savings and became a partner in the new firm called Penfield & Wilcox.

By using more direct marketing techniques, Wilcox was able to overcome the opposition that developed on the part of journeymen sailmakers who feared that the use of the new grommet would reduce the need for their services. The company prospered and added other items to their inventory based on the needs of sailmakers. In 1857, Wilcox invented and patented a new and improved grommet made in three parts which was even more successful than the original device. He also invented a round-edged sail thimble which replaced the iron, sharp-edged thimble previously in use.

The partnership of Penfield & Wilcox was dissolved circa 1859, when Ira Penfield retired. Wilcox moved the business and took into partnership Joseph Hall, Jr. of Portland, CT and formed the firm of Wilcox & Hall, which continued until 1867 when Hall retired and sold his interest to Wilcox.

In 1869, Wilcox formed a partnership with three of the younger men of his organization, Albert R. Crittenden, E. Bound Chaffee, and Homer Churchill. Crittenden purchased a tenth interest in the business for $5,000, and name of the firm was changed to Wilcox, Crittenden & Company.

In the maritime world, steam was gradually replacing sail, and the company’s 1870 catalog offered such varying products as shackles, thimbles, ring bolts, “Ereful whistles,” engine-room signals, boat nails “of good Swede’s steel heavily galvanized,” and cotton hooks “New Orleans pattern.” A new outlet for sailmakers was in manufacturing awnings and the company began stocking awning hardware as well. In 1883, Wilcox developed an improved brass grommet (which became known as the spur grommet), secured its approval as standard equipment by the British Admiralty, and eventually it was adopted by all the leading navies of the world. By the late 1880’s, Wilcox, Crittenden & Company had become the largest manufacturers of marine hardware with the most diversified line in the United States.

The company survived a fire in 1907 which destroyed a large portion of the plant. They maintained during the World Wars and the Depression and by 1961, Wilcox, Crittenden & Co., Inc. was a division of North & Judd Manufacturing Co. By 1971 it was a Gulf + Western Precision Engineering Company, and by 1975, a division of Gulf + Western Manufacturing Company. Thetford currently holds the name and all they offer are toilets. Sadly, the era of Wilcox Crittenden bronze passed nearly 4 decades ago.

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Rebuilding and Polishing Bronze Merriman No. 2 Sheet Winches

Starboard Merriman No2 Bronze Winch - Before

The old Merriman Winches on my boat are 46 years old. I could tell the port winch had been rebuilt because some PO had used poor substitute springs. Merriman No. 2 winches are incredibly simple – but before I get started, here is a bit of history about the winch and the company.  

Merriman Winches  

Merriman Winches have been out of production for many years. During more than 80 years of production Merriman produced dozens of different types of winches in many sizes.  

Merriman Bronze Winches – Identification through Pawls and Springs
Merriman #395 and #396 Bronze Winches were produced from the mid 1920’s until the early 1970’s, and are the most commonly seen Bronze winches. Up until 1971, there was simply 3 sizes and 2 variations. 

Sometimes Chrome-plated, these Top-action (#395) and Bottom-action (#396) Halyard and Sheet Winches all used a Flat, Slide-in Bronze Winch Handle. Most Winches have the size (#1, 2, or 3) stamped in the top. Versions produced after 1963 used square Pawls, earlier models had Round Pawls.  

The Winch with the "screw" and top removed

Even though my boat has a build date of 1964, the winches are several years older because of the use of stock at hand. The winches on Connie are the last of the round pawl 395’s.  

Merriman 395/6 #2 Bronze Winch has 3/8″ Round Monel Pawls for Merriman #396-2 and early #395-2 Bronze Winches. Pawls are machined from 3/8″ Round Monel stock. Pawls are 3/8″ diameter x 1″ (maximum) long. To rebuild the winch with new parts, a set includes (4) Pawls and (3) Springs (1 extra).  

Once again, these winches are dead simple to dismantle. You can just use the original winch handle to remove the top “screw”.  

Remove the “screw”.  

Pull off the top of the winch.  

Lift off the drum.  

Make sure that you do not loose the pawl pins and springs!  

Dismantled winch parts - only the mount / shaft is not removable

Clean all the parts with thinner, mineral spirits or varsol.  

If the springs are damaged, a medium compression spring, 1/4″ x 5/8-3/4″ (I cut down a 2″ spring) can be substituted in a pinch.  

After I degreased everything, I took the bronze parts and ran them in my polisher with a brass brush, the polisher with brown then white polish. I reassembled everything with a light coat (the springs get a heavy coat) of CV joint grease. Why CV joint grease? These winches were originally ‘oil’ winches – there is an oil hole on the top. The PO had packed the winch with thick grease (it felt like bearing grease). CV joint grease has graphite, is thinner and water-resistant.  

Polished and feeling great!

Now they are done! I hope to bring the rest of the boat to the same or above standard.

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