The alternate reason for an inboard - to clean up this pretty transom.
I put the outboard up for sale even before I took delivery of the boat. The transom is too pretty – and too high above the water – for an outboard. Additionally, I have thoughts of taking this boat further and I would need the power of an inboard and it’s below water propeller to do what I want.
S/V Connie originally had an inboard Palmer 1 cylinder gas engine. I was going to have to fit something like this original engine and redrill out the shaft tube.
Here are the variables (nothing is crossed off the list, yet):
- New or old
- Diesel, gas or electric
- In diesel – one or two cylinders
One of the prime restrictions for the engine is the opening of the hatch and the front of the ‘engine room’
- Through the companionway – 20″ wide – 28″ high (at 45 degree angle, hatch removed).
- Engine opening inside – 18″ wide – 24-1/2″ high (no room to alter either measurement).
- Engine bed – 12″ inside, apart, 5″ to stringers.
Engines that can power the boat; NEW – watercooled diesel
Nanni 2.40HE (10.6HP), Nanni 2.10N (10HP), Yanmar YM-2YM15 (13.3HP), Yanmar 1GM10 (9HP), BETA 10 TMC40 (10HP), BETA BZ482 (13.3HP), BETA 14 (13.5HP), Lombardini LDW 502 M (13HP), Volvo Penta D1-13 (11.8HP) and Westerbeke 12C2.
Of those engines, only one of them with fit through the dimensions I have (I know of one fitted to another East Wind), the Yanmar 1GM10.
Engines that can power the boat; NEW – air-cooled diesel
UPDATE – This article was originally written back in May (up to here). It is now July and I have looked at all the options available. In the interim, I ‘bought’ a yanmar diesel, only to have the guy steal my deposit and disappear. Now I have made a choice for a new engine.
Choosing the upgrade of an engine is never an easy. I even thought of electric (I joined a group that plays with electric motor conversions in boats), with the goal to motor only 30 miles if needed. In the end, choosing the engine was decided by several factors.
My engine choice:
- Size – it had to fit though the opening I had – no cutting open the cockpit
- Weight – I wanted to keep the weight to a minimum and still generate HP, in fact, I wanted it to be light enough that I alone could move it around
- Fuel efficient – I did not want to carry large amounts of fuel
- Simple – It had to work without being ‘too complex’
I even though of going back to the outboard – but it was declined because of the cavitation when using it in rough seas and the fuel consumption is greater than diesel.
Electric was declined because of the weight (I was looking at 32v motors that could push my boat with 4Hp) of the motors and batteries.
So that leaves a diesel engine, again.
Here is the engine I am installing and the reasons for it.
Hatz Diesel 1B40
I have chosen the Hatz Diesel Engine with Electric Start — 10 HP, 1in. x 2.84in. Shaft, Model# 1B40U2ES-9929 from Northern Tool. I will explain more about the engine below. The reasons I chose this are based on:
- Size – It is 15.5″ wide. It will fit through my narrow cabin opening and mount to the frame that I have. I even have room to reach around the engine when in the compartment to bolt it down.
- Weight – 117.5 pounds, with electric start.
- Fuel consumption – 1/4 gallon per hour.
- Simple – electric start that can be mechanically started as well, no water-cooling.
Here is a bit more data – in here, you will find the reasons I have set on this engine.
The shaft can take a compression load of 1200 N (270 pounds) which is the force generated by 10hp through a propeller. It is designed to take a propeller (or full work) thrust load. There is no water cooling for this engine; no water pump, no thruhull, no exchanger. I have the room for air cooling, Hatz supplies the information of the amount of air that is needed to keep the engine cool (24 cuft/min). The 1B40 developes its maximum torque at 2000 rpm with 7.2 Hp. The engine has an alternator charging current of 14V at 3000 rpm (14 Amps) or 1500 rpm (7 Amps). The U model engine has an additional counter balance to smooth out the single cylinder engine. It is at it’s most fuel efficient at 2000 rpm. The engine can operate up to 35 degrees heal and 25/35 degrees pitching. Lastly, it can be pull started!
The full details of the Hatz Diesel are here. I am looking at the 1B40 – 10Hp. They have other engines on here for both less and more Hp. If you have a small boat and are repowering, take a look at these little powerhouses.
Here is a little bit of background. I have owned two sailboats with diesel engines. One had a German Farymann 10Hp, an A30. This engine was noisy (like an air-cooled!) and raw water-cooled. It served me well in my trimaran, Godsend. It had little problem pushing the 2500 pound boat to hull speed.
The second was a big Norwegian Sabb 20 Hp. It was a crazy heavy motor that made 20 real Hp from a 1000 pound motor. Reliable and loud, I cruised with it at 1100 RPM and a prop speed of 1/2 that. It had no problem pushing the 26,000 Ingrid with tugboat like wash.
I have worked on many other engines for friends – Perkins (I like the simplicity), Yanmar (they make darn nice engines), Volvo and Kubota blocks.
How I came to this path.
While researching, I looked at every marine diesel I could find, including some air-cooled oddballs – like Lister, Lombarsini, Ducati, Robin and Lovson. I searched websites in Europe and Asia and found that there were boat operators (sailboats, small fishing boats and pleasure boast) that were using smaller aircooled diesels.
Here is a popular small air-cooled diesel used in Asia – it is a marine aircooled diesel. The Robin is also from China.
It seems like small air-cooled diesels are used in Asia, the UK and Eastern Europe. It was because I found that they were used so well in Asia, in heat, in boxes! that I figured it was worth a try. After running for some time, I will report a usage update.
Lastly – are you struggling to figure out your propeller for your project? I was until I found this site…
Victoria Propeller – just go to their calculators
Hatz 1B40 - 10Hp